Penne alla buttera

PENNE WITH COWBOY RAGU

serves 6
preparation:– 15 minutes
Cooking:– 40 minutes

as seen in

Italian Coastal

Butteri are cowboys from the southern coastal region of Maremma in Tuscany. Apparently dating back to when the area was run by the Etruscans, butteri were responsible for wrangling the buffalo the region is famous for on horseback. They were central to the economy of Maremma, making the most of the region’s varied landscape — marsh, woodland, hills, and coast —throughout the year. With the demise of large estates in the 20th century the role became more folkloristic than a way to make a living.

Pasta alla buttera is a quick and practical dish that could be made on the move over a campfire. As with most peasant dishes it was traditionally made with whatever the butteri had on hand (meaning there are a hundred different versions), but generally it featured sausages made of wild boar, which run rampant through the Tuscan countryside. Here I use good-quality pork sausages, and I’ve allowed a little more cooking time to develop maximum flavor. Do be picky about your sausages as the best you can buy will give a superior texture.

ingredients

  • 6 wild boar or organic pork sausages
  • 3 tablespoons olive oil
  • ½ white onion, finely chopped
  • sea salt
  • 2 garlic cloves, crushed
  • 1 long red chili, cut in half lengthwise, deseeded and finely sliced crosswise into ribbons
  • 130 g (4 ½ oz) good-quality black olives, pitted, and sliced in half lengthwise
  • 400 ml (13 ½ fl oz) tomato passata
  • 500 g (1 lb 2 oz) penne
  • chili flakes, to taste
  • 80 g (2 ¾ oz) pecorino toscano or romano, finely grated, plus extra to serve

method

Remove the sausage meat from its casings, put in a bowl and break into small bite-sized pieces.

Heat 1 tablespoon of olive oil in a wide frying pan or medium saucepan over a medium heat. Brown the sausage meat for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally to ensure it cooks evenly, then transfer to a bowl.

Heat the remaining olive oil in the pan, add the onion and a pinch of salt, and cook over a medium heat for 2 minutes. Add the garlic, sliced chili and half of the olives, and cook for another 5 minutes or until the onion is translucent. Stir in the sausage meat.

Pour the passata over the sausage mixture, then half-fill the empty bottle with water and swish it around to pick up any remaining tomato, and pour the tomatoey water into the pan. Add the rest of the olives and leave to bubble away over a medium heat for 25 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Meanwhile, bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil. Add the penne, give it a good stir so that it doesn’t stick together, and cook until al dente (about 10 minutes, but check the package instructions). Halfway through the cooking time, scoop out a ladleful of the starchy pasta water and add it to the sauce. Increase the heat and stir so that the water amalgamates with the sauce. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary, and add chili flakes, to taste.

Drain the pasta and add to the sauce, along with the grated pecorino and a splash of pasta water if it still needs help coming together. Serve immediately, topped with more pecorino.