Butteri are cowboys from the southern coastal region of Maremma in Tuscany. Apparently dating back to when the area was run by the Etruscans, butteri were responsible for wrangling the buffalo the region is famous for on horseback. They were central to the economy of Maremma, making the most of the region’s varied landscape — marsh, woodland, hills, and coast —throughout the year. With the demise of large estates in the 20th century the role became more folkloristic than a way to make a living.
Pasta alla buttera is a quick and practical dish that could be made on the move over a campfire. As with most peasant dishes it was traditionally made with whatever the butteri had on hand (meaning there are a hundred different versions), but generally it featured sausages made of wild boar, which run rampant through the Tuscan countryside. Here I use good-quality pork sausages, and I’ve allowed a little more cooking time to develop maximum flavor. Do be picky about your sausages as the best you can buy will give a superior texture.